Last year, when I was tidying up, I came across a bolt of grey wool gabardine that I no longer needed.
When I mentioned it to my friend Amanda, she commented that her local quilting group could use it for making waggas. And when I enquired what a “wagga” was, the darling woman sent me photos of some pages from The Fabric of Society, Dr Annette Gero’s brilliant book about Australian quilt history. I was hooked. I cheerfully sent the bolt of wool up to Amanda in rural NSW.
Before we go any further, I should point out that I am not a quilter. I have a surprising number of friends who are amazing quilters, but I know my limitations. Any hobby that gives me an excuse to hoard small scraps of fabric must be avoided at all costs.
But I am a mender and I do love all things vintage, partly for the aesthetic, but mostly for the wonderful stories an old piece will have to tell. So when I was at the Sewing Basket recently, I bought three very torn and battered old quilts to see if I could mend them. I’ll do a separate post about them – I’m still trying to take decent photos. But here’s a sneak peak…
Working on the quilts reminded me of the book Amanda had mentioned, and I thought it might be an interesting read. It turned out to be a great deal more than that!
It wasn’t an easy book to find – being published a decade ago meant that most bookstores no longer stock it. I finally tracked down a copy from Dr Gero herself…and ended up spending a glorious hour showing her my old quilts and talking excitedly about all things textile related. Of course, I also purchased a signed copy of The Fabric of Society from her, and I can’t begin to tell you how much I’m enjoying it.
As a quilt historian, Annette has researched the provenance and backstories of the quilts she showcases, and her writing style brings their stories to life. The book provides a unique insight into Australian history and a glimpse of the everyday lives of men and women from the early 1800s to 1960. Annette has kindly given me permission to share a few pages with you.
This quilt was made by convict women en route from England to Australia in 1841. This was a common practice, but the Rajah Quilt – named after the ship transporting the women who created it – is the only one of its kind to have been uncovered to date…
Mary Chubb Tolman’s humungous hexagon quilt was made sometime prior to 1857. It boasts 6,063 hexagons and an estimated 750,000 hand stitches. I’m including the story that accompanies the quilt so you can get some sense of how the book is laid out.
I laughed out loud at the last line – the patterns which accompany the book include one for this quilt, but anyone who is willing to undertake a project of that magnitude now (or even back then) has my utmost respect…
The quirky quilts of Mary Jane Hannaford are featured and they’re just too fabulous for words! One of Australia’s most famous quiltmakers, she didn’t start quilting until she was in her 80s (!) and all of her works are delightfully whimsical and deeply patriotic…
And then…there is an entire chapter on waggas!
Waggas are the quintessential Australian quilt. They appear in the stories of Henry Lawson and Banjo Patterson (1890s), and the term was originally used to describe crudely sewn together sacks (or other found fabrics) which were used as rough blankets. There is a country town in our state called Wagga Wagga (it’s a Wiradjuri phrase meaning “the place of many crows”). The “wagga” name for these blankets is thought to have come from the Wagga Lily Flour sacks which were used to make some of the very early ones.
I adore everything about them – the frugality, the make-do spirit, the uniqueness of every single one. I love that they were almost always made from upcycled fabric and clothing, and that they were meant to be true workhorses, designed to keep folks warm during hard times. I love that the ones which survived did so as family treasures – being so coarsely assembled and heavily used meant they didn’t have any value as objet d’arts. However, like many items of this ilk, they carried with them the memories and stories of hard times and sacrifices made by earlier generations.
This one made by Joan Williamson in the late 1940s was filled with old clothes. The clothing had been well darned, and when it had passed the point of no return, it had been turned into quilt padding. Many waggas were created using re-purposed materials at a time when resources were seen as too precious to discard. Our planet would be so much healthier if we all viewed clothing that way today, because in reality, our resources are still too precious to discard, regardless of what they cost to buy…
If you’re a quilter, the book comes with paper patterns for 29 of the vintage quilts in the book…
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The Fabric of Society is an expensive book, but at the same time, it’s also excellent value for money.
It’s weighty, the photography is stunning, and the stories are joyous and fascinating. Published by fine art specialists The Beagle Press, the pages are thick and glossy, the quilt photos appear to have been taken under natural light (my old iPhone didn’t do them justice), and the book is bound in such a way that it sits flat when open, so you can read it while nursing a cup of tea (a very important consideration).
At a time when we’re all trying to stay at home as much as possible, it was a no-brainer for me to spend the dollars I’d been saving by not eating out on something that will provide hours of enjoyment and distraction.
As always, this isn’t an ad – I don’t have any affiliation with Annette, but she’s incredibly kind, extremely knowledgeable, and huge fun to talk to. At one point in our conversation, she mentioned that she has trouble walking away from vintage doilies at markets. “Someone put so much work into them and they’re selling them for just a few cents each! I have to buy them…otherwise all that hard work isn’t getting the respect it deserves”.
I told this story to Pete. My husband is very used to me coming home with handcrafted items I’ve “rescued”, citing the exact same reasoning.
“I think I’ve found my spirit guide”, I told him. “You are not allowed to go shopping together”, he replied.
If you’re interested in purchasing a copy of The Fabric of Society, please email Dr Annette Gero directly via her website. ♥
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Folks, Annette just asked me to let you know that she is selling her latest book Wartime Quilts for $89 (which is 30% off RRP). She will also pay the postage to anywhere in Australia. You can read all about it here – it’s a spectacular book and filled with stunning quilts, many made by soldiers, some containing up to 9000 pieces of wool. (Umm. I might have come home with a copy of this one too. Don’t tell Pete.) Please email her directly for more info.
Wagga, that is such an interesting word. Conjures up all kinds of things but the frugality is just wonderful Waste not, Want not. Those quilts are stunning, how lucky for you you got to meet Dr. Gero.
Susan, there is a country town in our state called Wagga Wagga (it’s a Wiradjuri name meaning “the place of many crows”). The name of the wagga quilts is thought to have possibly come from the Wagga Lily Flour sacks which were used to make some of the very early ones. I’ll add this info to my post – thanks! x
So interesting, thank you. I am sending a link to your post to a friend who is an avid quilter. I am now so sorry I gave away my sewing machine when we moved. I love the idea of all the repurposed fabric.
If Mary Jane Hannaford didn’t start quilting and sewing her treasures until her 80’s there’s hope for you yet! It is a beautiful book to both look at and read. And the lovely grey wool is waiting patiently for its rightful use!!
I had this book out of the library on more or less continuous renewal for about 3 months, until they gently suggested that I bought my own copy. At the time I didn’t have the funds… I have also seen quite a few of the featured quilts in person, as it were, when the Victoria & Albert Museum in London had them on loan during a fantastic exhibition they put on while I was there visiting family. Having hand-made several large hexagon quilts myself, I’m still stunned at how much work some of them contain.
Who knew quilting had such a backstory in Australia and there is a book devoted to it. The story of how that woman who spent unknown hours making a quilt that she gave to her brother without receiving any acknowledgement or thanks is so sad. The Sewing Basket shops sound like a wonderful place to send unused fabric. Thanks Celia.
I know, right? He needed a good slap for that! The Sewing Basket is too wonderful for words. We can donate our precious fabric there knowing it will end up being bought by equally passionate fabricholics who will treasure it! :)
I have a pile of material I’m not going to make into any projects including some lovely cashmere; I was wondering who I could gift it to.
The quilts are beautiful! I didn’t know Australia had such a colorful quilting history. I have made a few quilts, but nothing as complex as those.
My family tree includes many talented tailors, seamstresses, fine knitters and crocheters… If not the talent, I have the genes and my fingers adore the feel of fabric, yarn… I love the works you have shared and the stories. But I know once I started acquiring fabrics they would find and follow me… over the years I have brought more than enough worthy old things home… a wonderful but finely managed compulsion.
Quilts are made from pieces of fabric, not necessarily triangles, hexagons etc.
Some makers are using old fashioned wool blankets(op shop) and quilting by machine onto a pieced top, (cloth flour bags ?) no wadding needed.Bind the edges all around…done !
I’m sure this is something you would enjoy without the need for a collection of scrap fabric….have fun.
She also wrote a wonderful book on Wartime quilting.. I really regret not buying it when I saw it at the Quilt convention
You can buy them directly from her! Drop her an email!
My artist friend Morley Grainger has an exhibition of art based on and about Wagga’s. She shares your approach to life. She is working on permanent exhibition of her work, and I have been recruited to proof/edit her draft memoirs. If you are ever up Toowoomba way, it would be worth checking her work out.
http://www.morleygrainger.com/exhibitions/menatwork.htm
I love this aspect of Australian craft history for the same reasons you do, and it does have me thinking (as I am no quilter wither though I do make things that are technically quilts…) perhaps I should be reclaiming this term?
That looks a fabulous book with such interesting stories. The thing that I don’t get about so many modern quilts is that people buy perfectly good lengths of fabric and then cut them up to stitch back together. They look beautiful but it seems a bit odd and so far removed from the make do and mend of what I imagine to be the original patchwork quilt.
I made a patchwork quilt for one of my Australian nieces and used some of the clothes that her mother had left in England and other fabric from our family. It may not have been particularly well constructed but I felt it was a tangible link to family in England that she would rarely meet. And she said thank-you even though she was only four!
Thought you might like to know about this: https://www.visitnsw.com/destinations/snowy-mountains/tumbarumba-area/tumbarumba/attractions/pioneer-womens-hut-museum a small but dedicated collection of the fascinating but ordinary including wagga`s
I’m not a quilter either, Celia, but your post was fascinating and this book must be a joy to behold. History and artistry. Wow! Enjoy your tea, xo.
With you! I adore quilt exhibitions but haven’t ever done patchwork; its like an art gallery or large botanic garden, something to admire without emulating. Celia, one of the quilt exhibitions I visited had Waggas made from woolen swatches which had been sent to tailors & dressmakers as samples; plain but rather nice.
You would adore this book, Diane!!
Great to see this book again. It was one I enjoyed perusing from time to time before 2009. Waggas, yes, many were also made from rabbit and possum skins.
Celia I’m not a quilter yet but am interested and how to find the time really but I love sewing so that’s a start. I really enjoyed your post and I will recommend to the local library to buy those books if they don’t already have them. Thanks for such an interesting read. I am forwarding it on to some quilting friends. Hope you are well, Pauline.