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Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

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In My Kitchen, April 2011 »

A Chocolate Experiment

April 13, 2011 by Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

As you know, I do love a culinary challenge!

This one came about when I discovered that my friends at Paesanella are now stocking Amedei chocolate.  Ever since I read Mort Rosenblum’s Chocolate, I’ve been keen to try this brand.

Amedei came about after brother and sister Alessio and Cecilia Tessieri, Italian sellers of baking ingredients, approached Valrhona seeking to distribute their products.   Story has it that Valrhona rejected their request, telling them that Italy wasn’t “capable of appreciating fine French chocolate”.

Furiously insulted, the Tessieris formed Amedei, which almost immediately started producing amazing chocolate.  Their true moment of triumph though, came when Alessio managed to secure exclusive access to the renowned Chuao cacao plantations, locking Valrhona out of their premium source of beans.  It’s a fabulous story – you can read more about it here and here.

Amedei are acknowledged as one of the leading chocolate houses in the world, as well as possibly the most expensive.  At $10 per 50g ($200/kg), it’s definitely a rare indulgence.  But after such a wonderful tale of passion and sustained Italian rage, how could I resist bringing home a couple of blocks to try?

The Toscano Brown, Amedei’s milk chocolate blend, was very nice.

The Toscano Black was sublime.  Big Boy and I particularly enjoyed it, but Pete said, “you know, this reminds me a little of the chocolate you make”.

The gauntlet had been thrown down.

Could I make a chocolate bar which we enjoyed as much as the Toscano Black?  The Amedei bar was a blend, so I thought it might be fun to play around and see what we could come up with.

After a few experiments, I finally arrived at something that we’re all happy with.  Pete and I personally prefer it to the Toscano Black, although Big Boy still prefers the Amedei, as does Dredgey (neighbours who pop in usually get roped into tastings).

The Toscano Black is a serious, sophisticated dark chocolate. In wine terms, it reminds me of old Bordeauxs with their distinctive cigar box and tobacco notes.  It has sweet fruit tones and just enough acidity to add complexity and depth.  It also has an amazing finish – this is a chocolate to be savoured in small pieces, with a taste that lingers in the mouth for many minutes afterwards.

Our home blend has a creamy mouthfeel, good balancing acid, and a strong cocoa flavour with hints of raisin and citrus.  The Tanzanie component contributes robust, slightly woody notes. To me, the blend lacks some of the complexity of the Toscano Black, but I enjoy the flavour profile a little more.  Like the Amedei, it also has a very long finish.

For my friend Gillian (who also reviewed the Toscano Black here) and others who are playing around with chocolate making, our final mix was:

  • 40% Callebaut 811 (54% cacao)
  • 40% Cacao Barry Tanzanie origin chocolate (75% cacao)
  • 20% Callebaut Cocoa Mass (100% cacao)

If my math is correct,  the resultant blend is a dark 72% cacao. Our bars (photo below) work out at $20/kg – definitely more affordable for every day consumption!

If you get a chance to try Amedei chocolate, I’d really recommend you do so.  Too expensive to eat on a regular basis, but perfect as a special occasion treat and conversation starter!

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Posted in Food & Friends, Recipes | Tagged Amedei chocolate, blending chocolate at home, Cacao Barry Tanzanie, Callebaut 811, how to temper chocolate, tempering chocolate, Toscano Black | 46 Comments

46 Responses

  1. on April 13, 2011 at 1:33 am Jeannette

    Hi Celia, I had never heard of this make of chocolate until this morning…. when reading the Daily Mail (UK) I read that the renowned chef, Michel Roux Jnr. names it as his most favourite chocolate! He says it is his ‘vice’ as it is so expensive but so good. And then I read the same day that you have tried it too, what a coincidence! I don’t know where it is stocked over here but you can guess I will be ‘Googling’ very soon to find out.


    • on April 13, 2011 at 6:35 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Jeannette, it’s always good to have a chocolate quest! Hope you find some to try.. :)


  2. on April 13, 2011 at 6:14 am Roz

    I will forward your blog to a friend who will be distributing Amedei here in Qld soon. He will be most interested, as you know I gave Amedei a mention on my blog about Quay Restaurant, I am pleased you can buy it locally and I am sure Paesenella are likely to be the most reasonable purveyors. Roz


    • on April 13, 2011 at 6:36 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Roz, that’s right, now I remember where I’d read about it recently! If it’s good enough for Peter Gilmour… ;-)

      Paesanella have just a tiny quantity of the dark, milk and white, but I was so chuffed to be able to find it! :)


  3. on April 13, 2011 at 6:44 am Choclette

    Your chocolate sounds wonderfully delicious Celia – Celia the Chocolatier has a certain ring about it! Haven’t tried Amedei yet, but I keep hearing good things about it.


    • on April 13, 2011 at 6:47 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Aaah, you’re kind, Choc, but a pyrex bowl and a heat mat doth not a chocolatier make… ;-)


  4. on April 13, 2011 at 6:51 am C

    Sounds like a delicious way to spend an afternoon to me – wish I could have been there to share in your chocolate adventures ;-)


    • on April 13, 2011 at 6:52 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Hehehe…a chocolate quest is always a good way to pass some time on the weekend! Wish you could have been here too, C! :)


  5. on April 13, 2011 at 7:50 am Gillian

    I am in awe …. Would you like a job?


    • on April 13, 2011 at 7:55 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Praise from the Mistress of Tempering! Thanks Gill, I was hoping you’d read this post! :)


  6. on April 13, 2011 at 8:41 am Meaghan

    Now I feel the pull of the Callebaut in the cupboard…….I have a love/hate relationship with chocolate – I love it, my thighs hate it. Up until now I’ve managed to avoid getting into the chocolate making – but you’re slowly starting to turn me……..


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:11 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Meaghan, don’t forget all the research into how good dark chocolate is for you! I can almost convince myself I’m taking a daily vitamin when I eat some..hahaha


  7. on April 13, 2011 at 8:48 am cityhippyfarmgirl

    I love every word of this post. The intricate subtlies that lie in these sorts of chocolates makes me grin from ear to ear. Love the packaging of the Amedei, beautiful. Would look appropriate sitting in my armani suit jacket…(if I had one.) But then it would probably melt and then that wouldn’t be so good…
    Your perfectly tempered blocks look wonderful Celia.


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:11 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Brydie, thank you – if you haven’t already got Mort Rosenblum’s book, you really need to order it. You and Mr Chocolate will absolutely love it!


  8. on April 13, 2011 at 9:42 am David

    You rock C, that must have been terrible for you to have to conduct those experiments!


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:12 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Davey, honestly, if you lived any closer, I’d have driven to your place with a sample!


  9. on April 13, 2011 at 10:55 am Amanda

    Like you Celia, I’ve had my eye out for Amedei chocolate ever since I read Mort’s book too.
    Yours sounds intriguing, though.
    When will you be marketing it – I’d buy it!? ;-)


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:13 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Amanda, too late now, I’ve just given you all my formula! ;-)

      The Amedei is really interesting, hope you track some down. I bet World of Chocolate (is that what they’re called?) in Adelaide would have some…


  10. on April 13, 2011 at 12:37 pm Melissa Boswell

    What a fantastic story, my in-laws are heading to Tuscany in May, shall pass on the link to the Amedei site, definitely worth a visit by the looks!

    Am so impressed with your chocolate making, I’m not game, plus I’d be scared I’d eat the lot, not good for pre-wedding diet!!!!! :)


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:14 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Mel, no no, not before the wedding! Save it for the honeymoon.. ;-)


  11. on April 13, 2011 at 12:43 pm Little Sister

    They were selling it at the Prada factory outlet in Florence; there’s a waiting area where you can buy coffee and chocolate while you wait for your number to enter the shopping area. I almost missed my turn; the cholocate was that good!


    • on April 13, 2011 at 2:14 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Hello darling…chocolate must be good if it nearly kept you from the Prada outlet! Hope my girls are both well – I miss them desperately. Lots of love xxx


  12. on April 13, 2011 at 2:46 pm Claire @ Claire K Creations

    My goodness that looks delicious. Off to find some to try!


  13. on April 13, 2011 at 3:20 pm Manuela

    I’m sure I’ve seen some of these chocolates, but never bought them. With such an interesting history, I’ll be sure to keep my eyes open from now on! Maybe just once, to try………
    Your “version” looks very tasty, too. I’m about the only fan of dark chocolate in our house, but that’s OK, leaves more for me! (Chuckle, chuckle,)


  14. on April 13, 2011 at 4:06 pm Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella

    I adore Amedei’s Chuao chocolate. It’s my go to dark chocolate-well don’t get to go to it that often as it’s hard to get and expensive but oh my, it’s good!


  15. on April 13, 2011 at 4:08 pm Marilyn

    Sigh… I want it, I want it… at least a little nibble… I’ll keep an eye open for this.

    Have you seen the movie, Chocolat? I recommend.

    :-)


  16. on April 13, 2011 at 5:52 pm Tracey

    You never cease to Amaze me Celia, soooo talented in the culinary world!!!!! xx


  17. on April 13, 2011 at 6:44 pm Anne

    wow – it must be HELL to be one of your neighbours Celia – being roped in for chocolate tasting would be SO difficult. So if those poor people are sick of the harrowing task, do remember there are others who can step up to the plate and take on these terrible jobs. I am the kind of perennial do-gooder who could take one for the team.

    $200/kg is certainly scary for the chocolate, but I will try to have a go. just ADORE Paesanella now that you introduced me to it. although I haven’t yet managed to be there on a warm ricotta day. pesky work seems to intervene!


  18. on April 13, 2011 at 8:10 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

    Claire and Manuela, hope you track some Amedei down! It’s a great backstory, eh? ;-)

    Lorraine, I still haven’t come across the Chuao block, must ask Johnny to see if he can get me a block…

    Maz, LOVE Chocolat…and Juliet Binoche..AND Johnny Depp! :)

    Tracey, thank you! :)

    Anne, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it, thank goodness I have obliging neighbours! ;-)


  19. on April 13, 2011 at 8:13 pm Christina

    I am one of the privileged few to taste this excellent chocolate. It is amazing and I am going to take tempering lessons and start making my own. I will save a fortune and eat beautiful chocolate every day.

    Steve also just tried and said ‘that is amazing’.


    • on April 13, 2011 at 8:26 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Whenever you’re ready, Chris! :) So glad Steve liked it too!


  20. on April 13, 2011 at 9:51 pm InTolerantChef

    What a nice way to spend a day! I’m sure yours is better too. Who got to lick the spoon?


  21. on April 14, 2011 at 3:54 am Sally

    Can I pop round for a chocolate tasting? You are muti-talented.


  22. on April 14, 2011 at 8:44 am Mrs Bok

    Stop making me drool! I’ve had to rush to the pantry and sneak out an easter egg!


  23. on April 14, 2011 at 9:06 am Joanna @ Zeb Bakes

    The effect of reading this was to make me make a chocolate tart today. It’s chilling in the fridge. I blame you totally. I checked out these luxury chocolate brands and they are all available via on line sites in England, but there is far too much choice and then I started reading reviews on various nothing but chocolate sites and overload happened very fast, so I will wait till I visit the Prada outlet for my spring wardrobe on route for Cordoba and the rest of the world… zebdreamingagain xxx


  24. on April 14, 2011 at 12:39 pm dianne

    Hi Celia – I’m a first time visitor to your lovely foodie blog – I have never tried Amedei chocolate – will try to track it down her in Adelaide. I’m a lover of good food presented simply.

    “Adelaide and Beyond”
    “All Things french”


  25. on April 14, 2011 at 1:15 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

    Becca, you’re right, it was a grand way to spend an afternoon! :)

    Sally, thank you!

    Mrs Bok, I haven’t even started making Easter chocolates yet! ;-)

    Joanna, I’m sure you’ll find some – there’s so much chocolate choice in the UK! But an excuse to visit the Prada outlet in Florence is always good.. ;-)

    Dianne, thanks for stopping by! I’m sure my friend Moo said there’s a great chocolate shop in Adelaide, in one of the arcades…just found it on google: http://www.chocolateworld.com.au/


  26. on April 14, 2011 at 4:25 pm Dredgemeister

    i think i’ll need to taste some more to be really sure….


  27. on April 14, 2011 at 10:05 pm heidi

    mmm! Reading this almost makes me feel better.
    And hungry…
    and envious…
    and happy!


  28. on April 15, 2011 at 5:19 pm Kavey

    I love Amadei!
    Sadly for my pocket.

    Favourite recent find is Amano Dos Rios… do try if you haven’t!


  29. on April 16, 2011 at 11:39 pm Anna Johnston

    Oh yes, have to agree with Anne, it must be hell *not* to be one of your neighbours, Oh Boy, I think I’d have died & gone to heaven :) I’m afraid I’ve never tasted Amadei but you’ve sure made me want to Celia. Bet yours is heaps better though :)


  30. on April 19, 2011 at 3:53 pm Susan

    $10 for 50g chocolate is a bit expensive for my tastes…although if I see it around I might give it a try.


    • on April 20, 2011 at 1:25 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Susan, it IS expensive – but worth a try – how often do we get to try something acknowledged as world class for $10? :)


  31. on April 21, 2011 at 6:07 am Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

    Dredgey, will have to organise another tasting!

    Heidi, wish I could send you some..hope you’re on the mend! xx

    Kavey, thanks – I’ll look out for it! :)

    Anna, oh girl, if you were my neighbour, we’d both be beached – could you imagine? We’d be tasting stuff all the time…hahahaha


  32. on October 9, 2011 at 4:19 pm Amy

    I love amedei chocolate. Their dark blends are so palatable for being dark chocolate. I never thought I’d really like dark chocolate – I always find it to be either too chalky or bitter – but Amedei brought a new light into my life. Especially being allergic to soy, this is one of the few chocolates I can enjoy!!!


    • on October 9, 2011 at 4:39 pm Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial

      Thanks for stopping by! Good to know Amedei is soy free…



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