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Archive for the ‘Recipes’ Category

Homemade Corn Chips

Is this junk food?

The guacamole is a lightly salted mixture of avocado, lime juice and fresh tomato.

The cheese is King Island Surprise Bay Cheddar.

The meat sauce was made with twice-cooked beef brisket, onions, tinned beans, tomato passata and a couple of bishops’ crown chillies from our garden.

And the corn chips?  They were homemade!

We began by making a batch of corn tortillas the day before. These were sliced into wedges…

…and deep-fried in hot oil.  We didn’t salt them, but they were delicious nonetheless – it was hard to resist snacking on them as they cooled…

So…perhaps not the healthiest meal we’ve ever prepared, but there weren’t any preservatives or highly processed ingredients involved.  If food processing is a ladder with raw ingredients at the bottom and supermarket cakes at the top, I think we managed to hover around the first rung.

Definitely not junk food!

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Ceeelia!  Have you tried my new cheese?

My friend Johnny at the Paesanella Cheese Shop is a very good salesman.

Not in a schmoozy, fast-talking way, but rather through his sheer unbridled enthusiasm for his products.  And he has good reason to be excited this time, because his new cheese is absolutely fabulous.

This Grana Padano – it’s basically a Parmesan, but it can’t be called that because of PDO laws – is made with a mix of buffalo and cow’s milk. The long aging process imparts an appealing crumbly texture and a deep, tangy flavour. I particularly love the little bubbles of creaminess dotted over the surface…

We’ve been using it in everything!

Pete asked for cheese cookies, so I pulsed the following together in the food processor to form a firm dough:

  • 125g (4oz) unsalted butter
  • 125g (4oz) plain (AP) flour
  • 125g (4oz) grated cheese (a mix of the Grana Padano, Pecorino and Red Leicester)

As you can tell, I like baking in round numbers. The dough was shaped into a log and allowed to rest in the fridge for a couple of hours, then sliced and baked in a preheated 175C with fan oven for 12 minutes.  The cookies were fragile, crumbly and very moreish – bake a little longer if you prefer them crunchier…

The current batch of cos lettuce in our garden was coming to an end, so I harvested all the young leaves…

…and turned them into Steve Manfredi’s Caesar Salad.  Because we were using freshly laid eggs, I didn’t bother to coddle them for the recipe.  The salad was topped with homemade sourdough focaccia croutons and shavings of the Grana Padano…

And finally, yet another Manfredi recipe (we’re really getting our money’s worth from the new cookbooks we bought), this one for a very simple cauliflower soup, topped with toasted sourdough and melted Grana Padano…

Johnny, your new cheese has been a hit at our place – we’ve just bought another wedge!

. . . . .

Paesanella Cheese Shop
88 Ramsay Rd
Haberfield NSW 2045
Tel. 02 9799 8483
Website: DeliVer, Gourmet Food Distribution

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Tortillas!  That was the next thing Pete wanted to make with the Sorj.

So we took a trip to Fiji Market in the inner-Sydney suburb of Newtown.  I hadn’t been there for years, and it was interesting to see how things had changed.  In addition to their mostly Asian and Islander ranges, they now also stock a wide variety of Mexican ingredients…

…including an assortment of dried chillies, all very reasonably priced…

We came home with masa harina flour (cornmeal), tomatillos, black beans, jalapeño hot sauce and four packets of chillies…

We also returned with a tortilla/chapatti press from Chefs’ Warehouse. It works brilliantly…

Corn tortillas were a doddle to make using the press and chapatti pan. (Note to SK’s husband: Andy, she needs these!)

Following the recipe on the packet, I kneaded together 2 cups of masa flour, a pinch of salt and 1¼ cups of water.  The dough was then divided into 16 balls and flattened between two sheets of plastic inside the tortilla press. These needed less than a minute on each side in the hot pan to cook to perfection.

We filled them with a little cos lettuce from the garden, slow roasted belly pork, a reduction of the tomato passata and red wine that the meat had been cooked in, and a green salsa made from tomatillos, jalapeños and fresh coriander (salsa recipe is here).

It was incredibly tasty, made completely from scratch, and not a skerrick of cheese or sour cream in sight!

. . . . .

Fiji Market
591 King Street 
Newtown NSW 2042
(02)  9517 2054

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Celebrating Failure

I believe the true secret of successful cooking lies not in ingredients and recipes, but rather in experience and practice.

And having made such a sweeping generalisation, let me backtrack a little to explain how this topic came up in conversation yesterday.

Our dear friend Craig is an extremely talented baker. He popped in for a meal last night, and brought with him a pear and berry galette that he’d “thrown” together that afternoon.  The pastry in the tart was fabulous – flaky, crisp and delicious. I’ve never been able to make anything like it. Craig explained that it was the simplest of recipes, comprising only flour, butter and water.

Now, I can take flour, butter and water and end up with a perfectly acceptable shortcrust pastry, but I have no idea how to make pastry that flakes away in sheets.  Craig, on the other hand, has spent countless hours perfecting his craft, and can turn exactly the same ingredients into something completely different.

My elderly Hungarian neighbour is another great example – her vanilla kifli recipe has only a handful of ingredients, but years of experience and literally hundreds of batches have given her the necessary skill to produce cookies that are unparalleled.  I’ve had the benefit of her expertise, which has allowed me to circumvent a decade or so of practice, but even after a couple of years of baking her recipe, I still can’t touch her offerings, which are known up and down our street as “June bikkies”.

The 21st century moves so rapidly that we’ve lost the patience to persevere.  We want to be instantly good at all things, including cooking.  We want recipes that will work perfectly each and every time – when they don’t, we’re inclined to dismiss them as faulty, or poorly written.  Some skills, though, can only be attained through trial and error – everyone will burn caramel the first few times they try to make it, until they’ve learnt to recognise the exact shade the melted sugar turns just before it needs to come off the heat.

Modern society is intolerant of failure.  It’s viewed with derision and contempt, rather than as the necessary learning process that it actually is. We forget that nearly every task becomes easy with sufficient practice, and every failure brings with it new knowledge.  To never fail is to never improve.

We believe that we should celebrate our failures, because each and every one of them offers an opportunity for growth – they’re all stepping stones towards the final goal.

Let me give you a personal example – our very first loaves of sourdough bread were difficult to make and barely edible – we watched the clock to ensure the exact proving time, fussed about the hydration of the dough and measured the ingredients down to the last gram.

Now, after five years of weekly breadmaking, the process has become automatic – I mix together flour, water and starter in the morning, ignore it all day, and come back late in the afternoon to shape and bake it.  I know instinctively when the dough is ready, and can intuitively adjust hydration levels and oven temperatures to suit fluctuations in flour quality and the responsiveness of my starter.

Along the way, I’ve had some spectacular disasters, with the occasional loaf that even the chickens wouldn’t eat (thankfully, the worms would).  And whilst I’ve been disappointed when things have gone pear-shaped, I’ve always been grateful for the lessons learnt as a result of the stuff-ups.  Without them, it’s unlikely my breadmaking would have progressed beyond its initial stages.

So, let me encourage you not to be disheartened when things don’t go exactly as planned in the kitchen.  There is nothing “wrong” with what you’re doing – it really is just part of the learning process.  You’re unlikely to repeat the same mistakes (although you’ll possibly make new ones), and eventually you’ll develop such mastery over your craft that, like Craig and June, you’ll be able to turn out magnificent creations on a whim!

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Chilean Pevre

Our friend Chris turned 40 recently and to celebrate, his Chilean inlaws threw him a party. We were honoured to be invited, and excited to be part of the festivities!

On the lunch table, accompanying the prawns, amazing pumpkin soup, huge hunks of meat and tasty salads, were pots of pevre, a Chilean salsa.  This delicious sauce was spooned generously over every dish.

Now, recipes are closely guarded secrets within the host family, so I and the handsome Polish boys, Sebastian and Maciej, sat huddled at our end of the table, deconstructing the recipe sotto voce and taking notes on my iPhone…

The following day, I went straight out and stocked up on the necessary ingredients.  I went overboard with the lime juice on my first attempt, but the second batch was a winner…

  • 500g tomatoes
  • ½ Spanish onion
  • ½ bunch coriander, leaves and stems
  • ½ clove garlic, minced
  • 2 small chillies, deseeded and chopped finely
  • salt
  • pepper
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons lime or lemon juice (or to taste)

1. Pick gorgeously ripe tomatoes (not an easy task in late Autumn!) and chop them up finely. I used a mix of truss tomatoes and Bella Rosas…

2. Finely dice the Spanish onion and taste a little of it.  If it’s too sharp, scrape it into a sieve and pour boiling water over it to mellow the flavour a little.  Drain well.  Finely chop the coriander.  Combine the onion, coriander, tomatoes and garlic together in a large bowl.  I only used a tiny bit of the garlic from the photo below…

3. Season the mixture well with salt and pepper, then add the lime or lemon juice and a generous glug of olive oil.  Taste and adjust as necessary.  Cover the bowl in clingfilm and rest it for a couple of hours in the fridge to allow the flavours to meld.  Taste again and adjust seasonings if necessary.

Our pevre is perfect on sourdough ciabatta toast…

…and dolloped into roast butternut pumpkin soup…

And you’ll be pleased to know that I didn’t waste the failed first attempt – I whizzed it up in the blender with stale sourdough (crusts removed, soaked briefly in cold water and then squeezed dry), a little bottled passata and a splash of sherry vinegar. Instant gazpacho soup!

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