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Sadly, Tagine is now closed.

We had a great meal last night with our old friends PK and Robyn at Tagine in Rozelle.  This charming Egyptian restaurant is a wonderful dining experience.  The food is interesting and delicious, but it’s the  service which brings me back – Ramy and his team are gentle, welcoming and accommodating, without ever being intrusive.  It’s just such a nice place to eat.

Pete and I decided this year that we would only pay for restaurant meals that we couldn’t make ourselves.  It’s a good rule, because it means that we always feel like we’re getting value for money (there’s no sense of “this is so simple, I could have made it at home”) and it forces us to try out different cultural cuisines.  The flavours at Tagine are indeed different – wonderfully so – with lots of distinctive cumin, coriander and baharat.

Of course, I had to whip out my pocket camera and take some photos.  The restaurant was quite dark, so I set the Lumix on its high sensitivity setting – hence the slight graininess of some of the shots.  All taken without flash or tripod though!  Ok, I’ll stop going on about my camera now…

Chicken livers, slow cooked with sundried tomatoes and mixed-nuts rice – one of the two entrees we had. Rob and I demolished this, while the boys turned their noses up at the offal.  They had spicy beef sausage cooked in capsicum, tomato and chillies, served with flatbread.

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Quails stuffed with rice, beef mince, pinenuts, raisins and caramelised onions served with creamy mushroom sauce – my favourite dish of the night. The flavours were rich and layered, and the combination of the sauce and stuffing were divine.

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Mixed chargrill of king prawns, chicken, and lamb – I was too busy eating quail with my fingers to try much of this, but everyone else enjoyed it.

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Om Ali – A North African delicacy of pastry, honey, nuts & raisins baked in double fresh cream – rich, luscious, moreish.  Like a really good custard pudding, only much better.  I loved this.

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Feteer meshaltet – an Egyptian delicacy of home made layers of pastry, covered in butter and served with honey, double cream & molasses – this was Pete’s favourite.  You break off pieces of pastry, swipe them over the molasses smeared on the plate, then dip them in the honeyed cream.  It’s very nice, but if you eat too much, you don’t have enough room for the Om Ali, and that would never do…

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Traditional fresh mint tea – a great after dinner drink, made from fresh spearmint and green tea, then poured from a height to aerate it.  Traditionally served in these delicate little glasses.

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Tagine has a great mid-week special – $39/head for two courses plus a glass of wine (or free corkage).  We were able to share two entrees, four mains and two desserts on that basis, and left feeling comfortably full.

I’m feeling very mellow and cheerful this morning – perhaps that’s what a truly fine dining experience does for you.  We felt like we’d been welcomed into someone’s home, and spent the night with friends. I’m trying to think of an excuse to justify another meal there  in the near future!

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My husband Pete is a genius.

That’s not news to anyone who actually knows him, but even after twenty-five years together, his cleverness still continues to astound me.  He can take a basic concept, turn it over in his head, and create something that no-one has ever considered before.

Take this lasagne for example.  After his initial resistance, Pete has fallen in love with our Römertopf baker.  He and Dredgey have formed a little club, in which they experiment with new dishes in the clay baker, then ring each other up and race next door to critique the finished dish as it’s pulled out of the oven.  Being males, they’ve come up with a set of guidelines on how the terracotta pot should be used.

Rule #1: all the ingredients  have to be cold and uncooked.  I did point out that some of the recipes that came with the pot involved precooking, but the guys have decided that doing so defeats the purpose of using the clay baker. Both of them were discomfited when I browned some chicken prior to adding it in, as that, apparently, is not “in the spirit” of the Römertopf baker.

Rule #2: the pot needs to be washed in the dishwasher. No soaking allowed.  Part of the reason for using the clay baker, I’m told, is its ease of clean up.  Don’t you love men and their rules?

Ok, onto last night’s dinner.  One would think that these parameters don’t really lend themselves to lasagne – a dish where each component is traditionally cooked before assembly, and which usually leaves the cooking vessel covered in baked-on cheese.  Lesser mortals might have been dissuaded, but not my husband.  After all, he’s an engineer. What you see above is his finished lasagne, baked from cold, and made up of almost all uncooked ingredients – fresh pasta, raw mince, ricotta, raw egg and cheese.  The only cooked ingredient was our homemade tomato passata, but this would probably work equally well with a store bought version.

The end result was a joy to eat.  It was absolutely delicious and we didn’t have a white sauce pot, a red sauce pot and a pasta pot to wash up.

I asked Pete to write up the recipe for me, and this is what I got.  Don’t worry, I’ll translate for you.  Big Boy and I laughed at how typically Pete-like the instructions were, so we thought we’d share it with you. I also thought James might find it amusing – he and Pete both have methodical minds…

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White Sauce

  • 400g fresh ricotta
  • 1 egg
  • pinch grated nutmeg
  • pepper
  • ½ tsp salt

Mince Sauce

Fresh Pasta Sheets – about ½ kg (you won’t need them all)

Cheese

  • Mozzarella – 300g – sliced or grated – this is the one we use.
  • Grated Parmesan Cheese – 1 cup

ingredients

Step 1: Soak the Römertopf baker in a sink of cold water for at least 15 – 30 minutes.

Step 2: In a large bowl, mix all the White Sauce ingredients together until well combined.

Step 3: In another large bowl, mix all the Mince Sauce ingredients together, stirring well to break up any lumps in the mince.

Step 4: In the presoaked pot, spoon a third of the Mince Sauce over the base, then cover with a single layer of pasta sheets.  Follow this with half the White Sauce, then a handful of cheese, then another sheet of pasta.  Repeat, ending with a scattering of cheese on the top. Note that you use a third of the mince sauce each time, and a half of the white sauce.

For the persnickety, here is Pete’s layering chart :

  • Cheese (top layer)
  • Mince
  • Pasta
  • Cheese
  • White Sauce
  • Pasta
  • Mince
  • Pasta
  • Cheese
  • White Sauce
  • Pasta
  • Mince (bottom layer)

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Step 5: Put the soaked lid on the pot, then place in a cold oven and raise the temperature to 200C.  Bake for 1½ hours.  Allow to rest for 15 – 30 minutes before serving, to allow the liquids to absorb into the dish. 

Note: check on the lasagne after the first hour of baking.   If it’s really wet (it will be moist, but shouldn’t be swimming), you might want to let it cook for a bit with the lid off to reduce the excess liquid.  We didn’t need to do this with our dish (ie. we cooked ours for the entire time with the lid on), but it can vary depending on the moisture content of the mince and passata.

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Oh, and in case you’re wondering – see that dirty pot in the top picture, complete with burnt edges where the dish overflowed slightly?  It went in the dishwasher without any presoaking whatsoever.  This is how it came out.  Not completely clean, but oh so close that I really can’t complain…

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Now Closed

We had dinner with friends last Friday at Bistro Ortolan, a two hat French restaurant in Leichhardt.  The food and service were both excellent, and it was easy to see how they had impressed the critics.  I managed to have two courses with foie gras, so I was feeling very opulent that night (as opposed to Saturday morning, when I was feeling very corpulent).

My entree : Rillette of Macleay Valley White rabbit with duck liver and Armagnac parfait, foie gras and freshly toasted brioche.

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Pete’s entree : Rare loin of Yellowfin tuna with almond and sherry velouté and blue swimmer crab rémoulade

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My main : Pot-eu-feu of organic Burrawong chicken with foie gras, Jerusalem artichokes, Dutch carrots and Black winter truffle.

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Dessert (which seven of the eight of us chose) : Raspberry and white chocolate ‘Bombe Alaska’ with fresh raspberries.  This tasted magnificent, although I was a little disappointed by the plating.  I don’t think the raspberries needed the silver leaf hats, which actually looked like bits of foil.

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Christina’s dessert : Earl Grey and chocolate brownie crème brulée with Pedro Ximenez ice-cream and warm chocolate fondant.

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Petit fours : I don’t know what these were, because I was so full by this point that I couldn’t eat anymore.  The little Lumix coped well with the low light (it was about 11pm by this stage), especially given that I refused to turn on the flash!

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All in all, a wonderful night out – we had fantastic food, great service and made some new friends.  Is there a better way to spend a Friday evening?

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One of the great joys of my life is being able to go to Flemington Markets with Pete.  The produce is amazingly fresh, the atmosphere is great and best of all, it’s a clear marker to the start of the weekend.  Now that I have a pocket camera, I wanted to share some of the sights that greet us at the markets whenever we visit.  There are lots of photos – I just couldn’t choose which ones to leave out!

Everything at the markets is ridiculously cheap –  for example, these 59g free range eggs were $6.50 for 30.  I indulged and bought a carton of fresh duck eggs as well – perfect for pastries and cakes.

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This is Jimmy the Tomato Man.  He doesn’t have a computer at home, but told me he’d get one if I put his photo on my blog.  How could I refuse?  We bought a $10 box of tomatoes from him, but passed on the eggplants this week, even though they were a bargain.

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Since we started going to the markets, mushrooms have become a part of our weekly diet. I bought half a kilo of these today, although I really don’t know what they are.  I think they called them “brown caps”, but I’d love someone to enlighten me. Thanks..

Edit: I’ve just been told these are King Brown mushrooms, an Australian cultivar of the trumpet mushroom (thanks Barb!).  More info here.

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I also bought a half kilo of fresh Shitake and some Swiss Browns – it’s going to be a big mushroom week here.

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The mushroom ladies share a stand with a lovely elderly gentleman who sells sugar snap and snow peas.  He was so pleased when a customer asked him if he was in his sixties that he gave him his goods and his money back!  I tried telling him he looked even younger, but he wasn’t buying it..

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An impulse buy from Morris and Jody’s stall – a box of super sweet black grapes – 10kg for $16.  Pete was murmuring something about “grape jelly” under his breath…

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Our rule at the markets is to buy from the specialists whenever possible.  These photos were taken at our favourite potato and onion stand, run by a cheerful cluster of larrikin lads.   They have a huge range of potatoes – from the cheaper, more common types, to a dozen or so unusual varieties – Nicola, Kipfler, Charlotte, Pink Eye, Dutch Cream, Royal Blue and one that has bright purple flesh.  We’ll often buy a kilo or so of something unusual to play with in the kitchen.

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They also sell Australian and imported garlic, as well as boxes of ginger at various ages (young, medium, old, very old).

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We stopped at Maurice’s dried fruit and nut stall to buy a kilo of  Australian blue lentils for Maude.  I didn’t even notice the  new sundried cherries and blueberries until I uploaded this photo – must make sure to pick some up next time I’m there.

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Highlight purchase of the day?   Two kilos of gorgeous Californian cherries for Small Man, who is a complete cherry addict.  He was overjoyed to see them!

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Harnessing my inner Lois Lane, I whipped out my camera and took some photos of my weekly pilgrimage to the Paesanella Cheese Shop.

Have I mentioned how much I love my little Lumix camera?  These photos were taken through the glass cabinets, without a tripod or flash.  The colours were perfect, despite the overhead fluorescent lighting (bless you, Adjustable White Balance function).

Some of these cheeses are pretty funky, particularly the La Tur, which made Daz’s eyes water when he tried it at our picnic in the Botanic Gardens.

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The French Fromager Des Clarines is a special treat – you heat it up in its little wooden box, then poke a hole in the middle of the cheese and fill it with a slurp of champagne.  The last time we did this, Gorgeous Terri brought Pomeroy as the accompaniment!

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These soft Tartufo goat cheeses  – imported from Italy – are studded with large pieces of black truffle.

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If you want seriously stinky, the locally made (and outrageously expensive) Holy Goat is an interesting cheese.  I once bought a wafer thin slice for $8.  It has a bumpy, almost quilted texture which makes you want to touch it.

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Delicious olives in assorted shades – our favourites are the pitted, marinated Kalamatas on the bottom right.  They also sell stuffed bell capsicums – the ones on the left are filled with pesto, and the other ones with mascarpone.

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Paesanella make their own fresh cheeses, including three or four different styles of ricotta, the rocket and chilli caciotta in the photo at the top of the page, as well as a multitude of fresh, smoked and brined mozzarellas.  They even make their own buffalo mozzarella, using locally sourced milk, which means it’s tangy, but lacks the unpleasant sourness of the frozen-then-defrosted imported stuff.

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There is, of course, oodles of other stuff in this shop – I just didn’t get a chance to take any more photos.  I came away with a large tub of warm ricotta, a new hard cheese to try, some St Agur (oh, how I love that they stock St Agur), Kalamata olives and the week’s supply of deli meats.  Happiness is a fridge full of gourmet goodies!

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Paesanella Cheese Shop
88 Ramsay Rd
Haberfield NSW 2045
Tel. 02 9799 8483
or visit their online store :
DeliVer, Gourmet Food Distribution

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