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lime curd and vanilla 012

Our charming flour distributor, who cheerfully rings my doorbell and greets me with his very French “Allo!“, is also an experienced pastry chef.  How insane is it that I even have a flour supplier?  Who gets 25kg sacks of flour – note the plural – delivered to their home?  Having said that, Alain is a really nice guy, and on his last visit, he taught me something interesting about eggs.  He said the industry standard for baking was the 55g egg – they allow 5g for the shell, so you’re looking at an egg mass of 50g for each “large egg” specified in a recipe.

(Edit 2011: Unfortunately Alain isn’t delivering flour anymore!  We’re now buying Manildra flour from Harkola).

I put that to the test this morning with a batch of microwave lime curd. Sydney has had some pretty miserable weather recently and I was hoping that a little jar of sunshine might boost my serotonin levels. The  problem was that I only had a mixed batch of duck and chicken eggs, whereas the recipe specified three standard eggs and one yolk.  I figured that to be 175g of egg mass, which I was able to match in weight with one chicken and two duck eggs.  The recipe was, as always, a breeze, taking less than 10 minutes from start to finish.  The lime makes it quite tart and the duck eggs give it a wonderful richness. I used 150ml juice and the rind of three limes, in case anyone wants to give it a go.  I’m feeling cheerier already…

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gf loaf 012

Dan the Man has created the best gluten-free bread recipe ever.

I’ve been on a quest to find Pete A a decent gluten-free loaf for years.  Every attempt has  been an abysmal failure.  Most have a cake-like texture, and only just pass muster if toasted.  The closest I ever managed was a gluten-free soda bread, but even that was solid and heavy in a pumpernickel kind of way.

What Dan Lepard has now given us is a chewy, elastic, tangy bread which keeps well for several days.  His secret ingredient – psyllium husk – mimics the gluten in wheat, and almost unbelievably, this recipe actually “proves” like real bread. (Note that I used psyllium husk and not psyllium husk powder – the former was readily available at our local health food store.)  The finished loaf is chewy with a crunchy crust and a non-stodgy middle, unlike the tapioca based breads which were hitherto the gluten-free standard.  Another nice thing about this recipe is that it uses readily available ingredients – just make sure you buy gluten-free cornflour, as many are wheaten.  Here are some photos, so you know what to expect.

The dough works together easily in the mixing bowl, after a good minute or so of stirring.  A mixer or breadmaker really isn’t needed here.  It will seem quite wet at first, but the moisture will be absorbed during the first hour of resting.

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Shape the rested dough into a baton (basically flatten it out into a disc and then roll it up), and place it into an oiled loaf tin.  Allow to rise another hour and a half, during which time it will just about double in size.

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Tah-dah!  The finished loaf…

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Pete A was so wonderful – he arrived at 10.30pm  to pick up his loaf (the man works way too hard), ate a slice on the spot, and said, “How have you done this?  It tastes just like bread!”

I received  these  messages from him over the following days:

Day 1 : ”Just had a lovely Enzo lunch; bread oil balsamic.  Bread getting a little tough in an Italian way so all perfect.  No toasting needed yet.”

Day 2 : “Just had lovely French toast.  Bread no tougher.  Still ‘Italian’ ”

I can’t remember a time when baking was more rewarding than this. Dan Lepard’s recipe is here – follow it to the letter, and it will treat your gluten-free friends and family to a taste that they’ve probably been missing for a long time.

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Edit 23/5/09:  Here’s a photo of tonight’s Kalamata olive and rosemary loaf :

olive gf 001

. . . . .

More gluten-free recipes here…

Update: 10 Nov 09: Gluten Free Christmas Cakes

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aussie pizza 003

Dan(ielle) mentioned to me yesterday that their current favourite pizza is the “Aussie”.  It’s regular fare for her, Patrick and Chris, our friends who moved from Sydney to San Francisco last year to find fame and fortune in Silicon Valley.  They make pizzas from scratch every Friday night and have become so proficient at it that they can complete the entire process in an hour and a half.  Their Aussie pizza involves cracking an egg into the middle of the prepared base, breaking the yolk just slightly, then baking in a blazing hot oven.

I was inspired to try an egg over  last night’s pizza of fennel, onion, pancetta, oven-roasted passata and mozzarella.  Fennel on pizza is our latest discovery and it cooks to a mellow sweetness – the combination with the egg was delicious.  And I don’t know why, but there really is something very Australian about a pizza with an egg on it!

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180509 028

Every household has a  favourite chocolate chip cookie recipe – ours has two.  Here is the one the kids love (Pete prefers his with more chocolate – recipe to follow).  This is based on the Blue Ribbon Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe by Mrs Fields, although I’ve modified it to include a short rest in the fridge.  I’ve found that chilling the dough slightly creates a cookie that is less likely to spread when it’s baked.

Click here for a printable version of this recipe

  • 400g plain (all-purpose) flour
  • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)
  • ¼ tsp fine sea salt
  • 1 cup (215g) brown sugar, firmly packed
  • ½ cup (110g) white sugar
  • 250g unsalted butter, at room temperature, but not too soft or melted
  • 2 large (59g) eggs
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 240g Callebaut  811 Callets (54% dark)
  • 120g Callebaut Baking Sticks (44% dark), broken into small pieces

Note: You could substitute 360g chocolate chips for the Callebaut chocolate, but use the very best you can find – the quality of the finished cookie is dependent upon it.  We use the combination of callets (easy melting) and baking sticks (bake stable) to create a cookie which has both firm chocolate chunks and oozing meltiness.

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1. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the flour, sifted bicarbonate of soda and salt together, then stir in the chocolate callets and pieces.

2. In a large mixing bowl, mix the two sugars together, then add the butter and mix to form a grainy paste.  Add the eggs and vanilla and mix at medium speed until combined.

3. Add the flour and chocolate and blend at low speed until just combined.  Do  not overmix.  Cover the mixing bowl with clingfilm, then put it into the fridge for 30 – 45 minutes to chill.  The dough should be firm to touch before you shape and bake it.  Preheat the oven to 150C (300F) with fan.

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4. Remove from the fridge and drop rounded tablespoons (I use a small icecream scoop) onto a baking tray lined with parchment paper, allowing room to spread.  Bake for 22 minutes (+/- 2 minutes), rotating the trays once during the baking time.  The cookies are done when they’re golden brown and a slight push causes them to move on the tray.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

cookie final

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basket crackers

When I was growing up, these crispy crackers were called “lavosh” and featured in the bread baskets of fine dining restaurants throughout Sydney.  They’ve now been replaced with sourdough bread, but I think it’s time we  had a revival.  If crunch really does whet your appetite (as suggested on MasterChef last week), then crackers could well boost restaurant takings during these tough economic times.

I don’t think these are true lavosh, as the recipe has yeast in it (lavosh is traditionally unleavened), but they certainly remind me of good times in the 80s!

Crunchy Crackers

Adapted from Blue Ginger Cracker Dough by Ming Tsai

  • 3 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 3 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 3 teaspoons ground fennel
  • 20g fine sea salt
  • 15g dried yeast (or 2 sachets)
  • 1kg bread flour or pizza flour
  • 220g (1 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
  • 625g (2½ cups) water
  • sesame seeds
  • 1 egg white

1. In a very large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and yeast.  Then whisk in the ground spices and salt.

2. Add the water and olive oil and mix with a spatula to create a wet sticky dough.  If necessary, use a clean hand to squelch everything together and make sure there are no dry bits remaining. Alternatively, you could try and make the whole thing in a mixer, which is what Ming Tsai does (my mixer couldn’t manage the six cups of flour).  Scrape your hand or spatula clean, and cover the dough with a tea towel and rest for 15 minutes.

3. Turn the dough onto an oiled bench and knead briefly until smooth.  It should work easily, as the large amount of oil makes this a very silky dough.  Try kneading with the slap and fold method rather than pummelling with the heel of your palm (which doesn’t work well with a wet dough).  Spray your scraped-out mixing bowl with oil, then turn the dough into it and cover with oiled clingfilm.  Allow to rest for an hour in a warm place, or until doubled in size.

4. Preheat oven to 175C (350F). Turn the risen dough onto an oiled bench and fold several times to knock the air out.  Divide the dough into four even portions and shape each one into a ball.    Pop each ball into an oiled container and cover, then allow to rest for a further hour (this further resting time enables you to stretch the dough very thinly later).  You could also just put each ball onto a large sheet of parchment paper, and cover with oiled clingfilm.  Make sure they’re not too close together, or they’ll prove into each other.  Preheat oven to 175C (350F).

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5. Tear off a sheet of parchment paper the size of your baking tray.  Turn a ball of dough onto your paper and gently ease it out.  Your aim is to get the dough as thin as possible.  Start by lifting and stretching the dough with your fingers, then roll it out even more thinly with a rolling pin.  When you think you’ve rolled it as thinly as you can, roll it a bit more.  Dust with a little flour if necessary, but don’t use more than you need, or the dough will stiffen up and lose its elasticity.  Note: I have very large baking trays (90cm) – if your trays are smaller, you might want to start with just half a ball of dough.  This recipe really does go a long way!

5. Brush the top of the flattened dough with beaten egg white, then sprinkle generously with sesame seeds and (optional) salt.  Cut the dough into large pieces.  I use a pizza cutter, but I have a granite bench – make sure you use something that isn’t going to destroy your work surface.

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6. Slide the dough and parchment onto a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes, rotating the trays halfway through the cooking time.  Allow to cool on a wire rack, and EAT!

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